From work boot to fashion icon – how the social significance of a boot model has changed

Extravagant over-the-knee boots, platform boots, or chic Chelsea boots are now a common sight on the streets. Some of them are temporary fashion trends, while others have become true classics.

Dr. Martens boots are considered true cult boots , remaining an integral part of shoe fashion to this day and never going out of style despite decades of existence .

Through the ages

Boots gained their place in society early on. As early as 1900, shoe fashion was characterized by delicate lace-up boots. Women of that time liked to wear them with skirts. These were usually models with a short shaft.

Although so-called knee-high boots were already being offered by shoe manufacturers, they found little favor. Heavy lace-up boots, like the ones we like to wear today, were also rather rare on the social scene at that time.

Instead, they were mainly found on the feet of workers. Even the English shoe manufacturer Griggs, which would later become Dr. Martens, primarily produced its boots for use in professional settings.

Popular work boots with a comfortable sole

In fact, the predecessor of today's Dr. Martens was invented by two Germans: Dr. Klaus Märtens from Munich and his university friend and engineer, Dr. Herbert Funk. In the 1950s, they began producing the shoes with the innovative air-cushioned soles and sold the unique models primarily to older women.

The shoe company Griggs quickly took notice and partnered with them. In 1960, the time had come: the first version of Dr. Martens was launched. Initially, the boots were available in Great Britain, and the former orthopedic shoe was particularly valued by the working class.

Because the Dr. Martens had one major advantage: their certified AirWair sole was significantly less hard than that of many classic work boots, thus providing greater wearing comfort.

Music and subcultures

The time hadn't yet come for the glamorous fashion scene. Nevertheless, a change was already noticeable in the 1960s: Dr. Martens became a fashion statement, at least in London's subcultures . Skinheads and punks began to incorporate the boots into their looks.

Some of them wanted to show their solidarity with the working class, others used it to celebrate their protest against society.

Many musicians from punk bands like the Sex Pistols or The Clash wore the shoes on stage as a sign of their nonconformity. This is how they steadily gained popularity, especially within their own subculture, well into the 1970s and 80s.

The work boot as a political statement

Tony Benn, a British Labour MP, appeared in Parliament wearing Dr. Martens, unmistakably demonstrating his connection to the working class. He made a visible statement and, at the same time, blurred the line between the working class and the political elite a little – at least in the realm of fashion.

From cult boot to fashion classic

In the 1990s, a new subculture discovered these rugged boots. The grunge wave made them truly popular. More and more people wore them not for socio-political reasons, but purely for style.

They've become an indispensable part of fashion and are worn by subcultures and fashion enthusiasts alike. Not only has the range of wearers expanded, but so has the selection of brands. Thanks to their lining, some Doc Martens are even suitable for winter.

Even true global stars like Ryan Gosling, David Beckham, Bella Hadid , and Lady Gaga are often seen wearing these sturdy boots. Some of them demonstrate just how wonderfully versatile these once-utilitarian work boots have become.

Lady Gaga wears the style classics as a contrast to the feminine dress, and Bella Hadid opts for a modern platform version that really stands out in contrast to transparent stockings.

A boot style that began its history as a work boot has now become an important part of pop culture and fashion , thus exemplifying how society itself has changed.

Nevertheless, Dr. Martens are and remain a symbol of liberal and creative self-expression and self-realization.

Joachim Rodriguez y Romero

Owner and Managing Director of Kunstplaza . Publicist, editor, and passionate blogger in the fields of art, design, and creativity since 2011. Graduated with a degree in web design from university (2008). Further developed creative techniques through courses in freehand drawing, expressive painting, and theatre/acting. Profound knowledge of the art market gained through years of journalistic research and numerous collaborations with key players and institutions in the arts and culture sector.

www.kunstplaza.de

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