On the timeless elegance of pocket watches : from prestige object to stylish accessory

Pocket watches boast a dazzling history of elegance and prestige dating back to the 16th century, when these Terms & Conditions first found their way into the fashion world. The production of a single pocket watch could take years due to its complexity and the limitations of the technology – a testament to exceptional craftsmanship.

In the 19th century, pocket watches experienced a boom thanks to new manufacturing techniques and the Industrial Revolution, becoming more widely available. They were considered an indispensable accessory, especially among wealthy citizens.

In earlier times, a gold pocket watch was a true prestige object and was often made from precious materials such as gold and silver, decorated with artistic engravings, chasing, gemstone setting and enamel painting.

With the advent of the wristwatch in the 20th century, the pocket watch was gradually displaced from its position as the preferred timepiece. Today, these elegant timepieces are experiencing a renaissance – connoisseurs and collectors are rediscovering the special charm of antique and mechanical pocket watches and appreciating their history, craftsmanship, and timeless elegance.

The history of the pocket watch: From court fashion to everyday object

Early models from the 16th and 17th centuries

The pocket watch was born in the early 16th century, following the invention of the crucial spring-driven mechanism in the 15th century. Peter Henlein from Nuremberg is considered a pioneer who, around 1511, combined this spring drive with an escapement mechanism, creating Terms & Conditions Watches . The first examples were heavy, cylindrical or spherical brass watches several centimeters in diameter, which were worn in pouches on the belt or on chains around the neck.

These early timepieces initially only had an hour hand, as mechanical inaccuracies rendered a minute hand simply useless. The minute hand was only added towards the end of the 17th century. At the same time, advancements in the movement made pocket watches increasingly slim, thus perfectly complementing the emerging fashion for waistcoats.

 

Pocket watches in the 19th century: Industrialization and spread

The Industrial Revolution fundamentally changed the world of pocket watches . A milestone was the Waltham Model 57 introduced American Watch Company – the first pocket watch with interchangeable parts, which significantly reduced manufacturing and repair costs. From the last third of the 19th century onward, simple and inexpensive pocket watches , the so-called “worker’s watches ” .

The growing railway traffic made precise timekeeping increasingly important and fueled the spread of the pocket watch . In 1867, Georges Frédéric Roskopf an affordable pocket watch called “La Prolétaire ,” designed specifically for the working class. Around the mid-19th century, industrial mass production began, making solid Watches with silver cases affordable for the middle class, while gold models with elaborate movements remained the preserve of the wealthy.

Influence of watchmaking on design and technology

Watchmaking has produced remarkable innovations. In 1842, Adrien Philippe the remontoire watch with crown winding , which eliminated the need to open the case for winding. In the late 19th century, Hugues Rime "Montres mystérieuses" (mysterious Watches ) a sensation – their transparent dials gave the impression of being powered without a movement.

The variety of models exploded: from the savonnette with a hinged cover to the coverless Lépine , and even the particularly flat dress watch . Watches were decorated with elaborate enamel paintings, portraits, or religious scenes. Around 1900, pocket watches production reached its peak before being gradually superseded by the wristwatch.

Prestige and symbolic power: Why pocket watches were once status symbols

For centuries, intricately crafted pocket watches symbolized wealth and nobility. They were more than mere timepieces – they embodied social status, technological innovation, and exquisite taste.

Use among nobility and upper class

For a long time, owning a pocket watch was reserved exclusively for the wealthy. Higher social classes used ornately decorated pocket and neck watches not only for telling time, but primarily to demonstrate their wealth. A particularly striking historical example is Maria Theresa of Spain , who was depicted Diego Velázquez in the 17th century with two pocket watches

Furthermore, many portraits of the nobility up until the 20th century feature elaborately designed pocket watches chains, with which the valuable timepieces were attached to the clothing.

Materials and decorations as an expression of wealth

The prestige of a pocket watch was particularly evident in its design. The following features characterized especially valuable examples:

• Cases made of gold, silver or platinum, often highly polished or decorated with fine patterns
• Embellished with pearls, diamonds and other precious stones
• Artfully decorated dials with guilloché patterns
• Enamel magnifying glass paintings with portraits or religious scenes

In the Palace of Versailles during the 17th and 18th centuries, a style-defining institution for all of Europe, increasingly elaborate timepieces were created for the "rich and beautiful" . Marie Antoinette's luxurious pocket watch, for example, became particularly famous.

Pocket watches as heirlooms with history

During the Industrial Revolution, pocket watches a deeper emotional significance. They became heirlooms, passed down from generation to generation. Each pocket watch thus told its own story – be it an exquisite Patek Philippe , a robust railway worker's watch, or an elegant savonnette with intricate guilloché work.

The rising middle class also used pocket watches , but valued their practicality more than the nobility. They became a symbol of bourgeois virtues such as ambition, diligence, and especially punctuality, through which the middle class consciously sought to distinguish itself from the “decadent and wasteful” aristocracy.

From timepiece to rarity: The transformation in the 20th century

Rise of the wristwatch and decline of the pocket watch

The beginning of the 20th century marked a turning point in the history of timepieces. The Industrial Revolution brought about a decisive shift, as the more practical wristwatch gained increasing importance. The First World War, in particular, accelerated this change, as soldiers recognized the advantages of wearing a watch on their wrist.

While pocket watches production reached its peak around 1900, its gradual decline began in the 1920s. By about 1930, the once prestigious pocket watches had been almost completely replaced by watches .

Mechanical pocket watches as collector's items

Despite their decline as everyday objects, pocket watches remained highly valued by enthusiasts and connoisseurs. They evolved into coveted collector's items and valuable heirlooms, passed down through generations.

The value of particularly rare pieces has risen impressively: "Henry Graves Supercomplication" was auctioned for 23 million Swiss francs in 2014, while the pocket watch of Captain Arthur Rostron , the rescuer of hundreds of Titanic survivors, fetched 1.8 million francs. Particularly sought after are:

• Complications such as minute repeater, musical work or perpetual calendar
• Excellent condition of case and dial
• Renowned manufacturers such as Patek Philippe , Freres Rochat or A. Lange & Söhne

In 2022, a collector's item from the Audemars Piguet , crafted from 18k gold and featuring an exceptional skeletonized design, caused quite a stir on the German TV show "Bares für Rares" (Cash for Rarities). The movement of the watch, dating from the early 1970s, weighed only 20% of its original weight. The watch's provenance is also intriguing, as it came from the estate of the artist Ingo Insterburg. The expert appraisal, at €6,000, already exceeded the asking price by €2,000.

Vintage charm and nostalgic aesthetics

Today, antique pocket watches embody the allure of bygone eras and exert a special fascination. Their vintage charm, with authentic details such as hand-engraved dials or artfully designed cases, makes them exceptional statement pieces. In a world of mass production, mechanical pocket watches stand for quality and durability.

The appeal of these timepieces now lies less in their practical function than in their exclusivity and rarity – as the editors of Stilpunkte emphasize. They are intended for those who collect Watches

A stylish accessory in the 21st century: why connoisseurs are rediscovering pocket watches today

Pocket watches have experienced a remarkable renaissance in recent years. While most people rely on digital devices, many yearn for the nostalgic feeling and classic style that these timepieces embody.

What role does the Netflix series Peaky Blinders play in the newfound popularity of pocket watches

The Netflix series Peaky Blinders is a prime example of what we in media economics call the "lifestyle catalyst effect ." It not only told a story, but also created a visual vocabulary that single-handedly revived watches

Tommy Shelby uses the pocket watch not only to tell the time, but also as an instrument of control. The striking Watches chains (especially the Double Albert Chain) that run across his vest function as masculine jewelry. In an era of interchangeable smartwatches, this offers men a way "distinguishability" —to stand out from the crowd through a historical detail.

Opening a Full Hunter case is a conscious, analog act. In our hyper-digital world of 2026, this "decelerated" gesture is a powerful status symbol for someone who has their time (and environment) under control.

The series shows us today that Peaky Blinders has transformed the pocket watch from a "museum piece" to a "statement item". Wearing one today doesn't signal: "I don't have a wristwatch" , but rather: "I appreciate craftsmanship and tradition" .

Pocket watches as elegant accessories for men

Particularly style-conscious men are discovering pocket watches as an expression of individuality. Attached to the lapel buttonhole and tucked into the breast pocket, a pocket watch adds an interesting touch to any suit. Alternatively, the T-shirt can be inserted through a buttonhole while the watch rests in the front pocket.

For everyday use, the chain can also be attached to a belt. This versatile wearing option makes pocket watches a distinctive statement.

Popular at weddings and special occasions

Pocket watches have become popular accessories at weddings. Personalized engravings – such as the wedding date or the couple's initials – transform them into unique keepsakes, symbolizing permanence and precious shared moments. They are also suitable for other celebrations like baptisms, anniversaries, or birthdays.

Appreciation in value and the passion for collecting

watches offer collectors a fascinating investment . Technical pocket watches from the period between 1870 and 1920 are enjoying increasing popularity. With the right selection, the annual return can be 8-10%. Models with striking mechanisms, minute repeaters, or musical movements are particularly sought after.

Entry is possible starting from 10,000 to 15,000 euros.

Modern pocket watches with a classic design

watches – like those offered Avenue Gousset combine

Renowned manufacturers such as PITANI , Dugena , and Hermann Jäckle offer high-quality models. Case sizes vary between 35 and 55 mm, while the dials are often elaborately designed – sometimes even transparent to allow a view of the movement.

Time never stands still

The pocket watch has undoubtedly had a fascinating history. Initially prized as a valuable status symbol of the nobility, it later evolved into a practical everyday object for the middle class. Although the wristwatch almost completely displaced the pocket watch in the 20th century, these elegant timepieces are experiencing a remarkable revival today.

Pocket watches today embody far more than mere nostalgia. They represent craftsmanship, history, and enduring value in a fast-paced, digital world. Their timeless elegance is particularly evident at formal occasions such as weddings or important anniversaries. The combination of traditional design and modern technology makes them the perfect companion for style-conscious individuals.

Furthermore, the collector's market for antique pocket watches offers exciting prospects. With annual returns of 8-10% when carefully selected, they represent an interesting investment. At the same time, they allow collectors to preserve a piece of watchmaking history.

The renaissance of the pocket watch ultimately proves that true quality and style never go out of fashion. These mechanical masterpieces continue to fascinate with their precision and aesthetic beauty, even after centuries. While the pocket watch may no longer define our daily lives, it remains a timeless symbol of elegance and craftsmanship that will continue to inspire many generations to come.